City of Miracles - Kashipuri

The three hours drive from Allahabad to Varanasi went on very well. It was  smooth and entertaining. That is the biggest advantage of travelling in a group. Roads we passed though not great did not give much trouble. I must say over all the highways in all the plains of the country seem to have improved, one indicator  of clear development, a large scale development,  one sigh of relief. 

As we  were getting closer to Varanasi the traffic began to move at snails pace.  Half of it's  narrow roads are  occupied by heavy vehicles waiting to get their clearance through the city,  may be  during night. The day traffic was horrendous with all types of vehicles trying to push themselves in the midst of  terrible  congestion. The roads were really in bad shape, and dust rises ten  feet above the ground making visibility poor and nostrils choked. Despite being caught in unawares drivers do not hesitate to speed their vehicles and every vehicle till the last minute appeard like rushing towards  us with an intention to crush us down. First time in my life I felt I was  doing a dangerous travel. 

We reached our heritage hotel booked by my nephew much in advance. Till  that  point there was a lingering doubt in my mind if we could get  hotel accommodation   despite reservation given the overcrowding situation. Tales of extracting rentals of  Rs 50000/- per day were going around. Our people are experts in exploiting any scarcity.But nothing of such sorts happened.  

Hotel seemed alright. It had beautiful elevation, good lawns, good dining hall and bad rooms. We decided to fresh up and proceed either for Darshan of Lord Vishveswara of Kashi  or Ganga Arti. Again we were on our sojourn in search of  divinity. After few kilometers of a precarious  jolly ride by autos trying to dash every vehicle coming in the opposite direction we were stopped by the police barricades at some point. With past experience at Allahabad hinting back We could understand we will not be allowed to go by an automobile any further.  How far is the temple? "Just Ded (2.5) kilometers" " Three Kilometers" " Adha Gante ka rasta" The answers being so perplexing  half of us went out of spirits given previous day walking experience  in Kumbh Mela. Roads are choked with people. We could find many foreign tourists on these roads closer to the temple as well in our hotel. I guess some times we have to assess the greatness of the place with presence o number of foreign tourists. They do  ample research before they set on a tour, and ridiculously we think we  can get instant information. So depend  on  a Rikshaw till you are stopped  and believe in strength of your legs. Finally we found  serpentine Q measuring few   kilometers  for Darshan. It was made  clear to us that   we can not make it before the temple is closed. We are left with one choice.  Watch "Ganga Arti".

We were in ghats after walking another kilometer. Arrangements are being made for Arti at Daswamedha ghat. Tired, mutilated,  each each knee deep  step of the ghat looked like deep hell for me. Opposite to the arti podium there sat few thousands.. may be lakhs ... or even crores... people are seen in clusters, groups, crowds  sitting in ghats and some who can afford boats boarding them,  to watch this programme invented by some organization facilitating throwing more garbage into already  precariously polluted waters of Ganges. " Ma Ganga.. you are so sacred.. so pure.. so take this trash.." It looked so paradoxical. Finally our people got me into a boat so that I can watch the programme conveniently.  I see so many foreigners in boats trying to take glimpse of this programme with their camcorders and cameras on. The porogramme began in half an hour and half dozen young boys in   attires similar to dance costumes came to the stage and did many rituals like lighting lamps,offering  dhup, agarbathi with choreographed moves. It was long enough and I dreaded  alighting the boat. safety seemed a question. Stampede...that was working back of my mind. One wrong move is  enough  to throw all the people to risk.  It is god's will whether he wants us to be alive or not. These millions dangerously dangling to  boat roofs, edges  and standing on feet in  shaky boats..standing on slippery ghats ... all are going to survive if alone god wills .  Arti was over. Every body started disappearing  and  in half an hour most of the crowd vanished.No stampede.. no boat turned upside down.. not a scream... I think there are few or many more or even much more who cared for their lives sitting in boats or standing ghats more than I do,  yet came to witness that Arti with hopes of life swaying in air.  Some impending dangers, unfold misery and mishap  some where from dark corners waiting might have threatened them too. But all of them came as  huge sea of humanity and  forgot who they are, whether it is important for them to be alive. The moment was precious..little adventure.. little penance.. little thrill.. great devotion..and much more trust on God..and not believing in their  personal abilities to protect them selves..but  trusting  gods' ability in securing them..subdued and sober  acceptance to his judgement..which can swig  either way..is the miracle NO 1.

As we could not make it to  Darshan on that day we wanted to go early in the morning to take Darshan. Next day we reached the place  by 6.45 approximately expecting to cover the eyes of  Police. But police  woke up before us and did not hesitate to put up  barricades,  to our luck at a closer point to the temple.  Again walking for a kilometer or so, we found our Q. As the roads are narrow the Q is formed only next to the gutter. Each shop keeper was  pouring water in front of his shops sweeping all the left overs, plastic glasses and plates into the gutter went  satisfied that his shop is clean. We Indians are very clean at the personal level but at social lever I think we are one of the dirtiest. No body knows whether we can carry cell phone, hand bag, or slippers, or if so to what distance,or  who will take care of them. As we are getting closer to the temple new new faces appeared  in the midst of the line. God knows when they squeezed into the line. Even police could not control them. It  got  very clear that no arrangement have been made for keeping shoes and hand bags. Then all of us began leaving them at some roadside shop knowing fully well that we will have difficulty in identifying shops. All who wore old shoes are in chuckles and who wore new shoes are in worries. We  began to identify more more native voices from our state. Thankfully tourism has increased in our native state of Andhra pradesh and people carry both plus and negative points along with them. Like seasoned artists many entered the line without much effort. We kept fighting with them till such time where we need to ignore them. We began ignoring them.

 As we were  getting closer to the temple a solemn mood possessed me . The security checks became more frequent and more police personnel were present.  My eyes were getting moist with devotion . It was my long  cherished desire to visit Kashi and  Lord Vishwesvara. The place every Hindu revered in his heart, a place he wants to visit at least once before he dies, a place that stood unshaken for centuries, a place that was never been a target for vandalism,  a place said to be existing from Satyayuga, a lone  place that is believed to be floating even during dooms day (Pralaya), the Linga which  is never taller than one foot, a lord whom any body can touch and worship, a place where poor and rich are treated equally...it is the  Lord Viswanadh I am going to see and worship. The crowd was too big that  we do not exactly remember where from we have entered the shrine. Right in front of me there was Lord Vishwesvara! Am I seeing him ?  or am I dreaming ? Whom to ask? Who will reply ?  Will they give me time to do all this worshiping . I poured my glass of milk and Bilwa leaves  on Lord's head. You are being  asked  to move immediately to make way for others. There was  not much of decorations for Shiva. You don't take so much time to see this god. One good glace is enough to fill your heart. It is simple Shiv Ling. I was pushed out. But I was happy. We traveled 1600 kilometers, walked approximately 7 kilometers, spent about four hours in Q to have this wonderful glimpse of 10 seconds !! Yet it is very fulfilling. My soul rejoiced looking at him. You forget all your vows the moment you see the fruit of all your effort,   the Lord. It is worth while. This is  miracle No 2.

On the way back we wanted to collect our cell phones and slippers and unmistakably we could find the shop. I wanted to purchase some thing from the shop but the shop keeper was not interested in selling but was interested rendering service to the people like us without expecting a rupee. This is miracle No 3. 

Half members of our group left for their resident   places as planned earlier. We were  only three left in our group. Evening we planned to see some local temples.  We had been to Sankat Mochan Hanuman temple where there was terrorist attack couple of years ago.. No body even seem to remember the incident. The temple was going in full swing. As usual many men and women are into performing their pujas and vratas. Life has to go on. Every thing looked normal and as if nothing has happened ever. India wipes it's wounds quicker than any body in this world. Where from they get this strength ? This  is miracle No 4.

We had been to few more temples like Tulasi Manas temple where Tulasi das wrote his Tulsi Ramayan, Durga mata Temple.  There are hundreds of  temples in Varanashi , the master being Bholenath (Shiva) temple. No temple is short of it's own  magical appeal.

Next day we planned to visit  Saranath and Vyasa Kashi in Rampur. Just 12 kilometers away from the cradle of Hindu faith there flourished and exists  completely different faith with so many foreign Buddhist visitors adorning it , and they have their  own Monasteries. While visiting  remains of Saranath we could see at least four  Budhist groups  belonging to different countries offering prayers  loudly chanting their prayers. After being hunted  by a boy to buy few Buddha tiny sculptures, while returning  I stopped and surprised to see that  young Hindu Boy who sold statue to me playfully jumping and reciting the whole text of Buddhist prayer so rhythmically as they are  being done by these foreign tourists. What a country ! It can embrace any number of faiths and still walk   with eternal Majesty  without loosing it's own identity. This is  miracle No 5.

Vyas Kashi is not a  different place but part of a Ramnagar  fort where vyas is believed to have taken penance and his temple exists there. Ranagar is seat of king of Banaras and every year Ramleela celebrations take place there.

Kashi or Banaras or varanasi is known for it's ghats and we allotted a complete evening for visiting ghats and taking a dip in Ganges, of course little hesitation because almost every where in Banaras ghats the water does seem to be highly polluted. We reached ghats this time quite comfortably since Kumbh Mela  crowds are dwindling. We engaged a boat and reached the other side of the Ganges. Unfortunately even other side water doesn't seem clean, yet we took a dip in Ganga and got into the boat.There are about 40 ghats in Banaras.  Each ghat is privately owned and as explained by boatman many ghats were constructed by wrest while Rajas and Maharajas and we can even find Harschandra Ghat and Veerabahu ghat and it is believed that their heirs still own them. On the banks of  one ghat we find Bismillah Khan's three storied building where he lived with his hundreds of grand and great grand children. Bismillah Khan was believed to have been offered a permanant resident ship  by a foreign country and he refused part with   Lord Vishweswar temple and river  Ganges. Having been satisfied with liberal tips, boatman began explaining ghat after ghat and  their significance with doubled enthusiasm. Initially the city of Banaras was built on ghats of Ganga. There stood the Lord Viswanath as a focal point. It is him who attracted every one to the city of Banaras and every ruler worth their salt either spent their time there or built some thing there.  The boatman was showing us Manikarnika Ghat where few human bodies are being burnt simultaneously on the banks of  Ganges.  The very next ghat mini restaurant is being sighted. Not very far from Manikarnika  we hear auspicious sounds of Shehnai indicating some function. Every incident or occasion looks to be running in the same latitude. . A  drop of tear rolling down from one eye  is being compensated by the flash of  gleam from one eye. Some body's bewailing  is followed by roars of laughter. For a regular Kashipura vasi it is no strange. Equanimity is what Kashi is purportedly be  teaching us. The city belongs to  Shiva the Lord of destruction and death   (Laya Karaka) who is supposed to be giving all auspicious things to people. Take the death as part of life  as you are  abandoning old cloths.  Joy and sorrow live side by side. No other city in the world takes death in such an equitable  manner. No other city people are so fear less. No other city people bask  in spirituality as in Kashipuri. This is  miracle No 6. 

We embarked on our journey in the narrow lanes of Banaras in search of one choultry as my sister wanted to contribute some money to it. old city of Banaras consists of incredibly narrow lanes and there co exist animals and humans. Still these lanes bustle with activity and trade. The lanes are hard to pass by on busy days still manage to accommodate motorbikes and some times autos.  Despite of  highly commercial modern Varanasi with good number of shops, hotels,and  commerce  it's  ancient and antique Old Banaras  is what makes real Kashi. It is hard to breathe in those narrow by lanes but hung Rudraskha Malas, Ganga water containers, Shiva pictures, Puja related articles, the smell of flowers, breath of  spirituality is what  pumps oxygen into the atmosphere. Either on land or water many many men in Varanasi  live taking the name of God or his related trade. For that matter entire city of Banaras lives in the name of Lord Shiva. Hindu, Muslim  communities live in incredible harmony and coexist in peace. Finally we could locate  "Karivena Satram" where mysister wanted to make some donations. While my sister was busy paying money at the counter  I sat in one corner and wondering at the number of people of my own state  I get to see in such a far away land. My  imagined loneliness makes no sense  and I felt I am participating in the world. 

Next day before leaving we wanted to have our final Darshan of Lord Visweswara for the last time in the trip. We got up early in the morning and paid visit to Lord Bholenath. This time we found no Ques. We were allowed directly into  into the temple. It is 6 o' O clock in the morning. Police in the temple  were seen  reciting their morning prayers. We could get an easy Darshan.We came out of the temple and completed  darshan of Annapurna devi too. With this I could complete my Kashi yatra. Inexplicable joy and satisfaction filled our  hearts and we were in triumphant mood. While walking back I could see around me,  old,  middle aged destitute, deserted,and spiritually inclined who wanted to pay a visit and many more of them who  chose their final destination as Kashi. Could it be my destination too ? A thought  which never struck before any time in my life flashed in my mind. This is  miracle No 7.